We Continue....

Glen Etive: our playground

The blue skies have remained and the Lochaber adventures continue apace.

After logging my airmiles on Tuesday I decided to have a rest day on Wednesday and belayed Blair on his Tunnel Wall project: Axiom (F8a). After a faultless toprope ascent on Monday afternoon he felt ready for the redpoint straight away and, naturally, got it first go. His first proper 8a, and instant membership to an elite club. There can't be too many Scottish climbers operating in this grade, least of all on Scottish crags. Nice going Mr Fyffe. To celebrate we drove down Glen Etive and hurled ourselves down a waterfall a few times. The dream lives on.....

Blair lost in a sea of rock: Axiom

Thursday provided a few butterflies in my tummy as we headed to Whale Rock in the Glen. I wanted to climb Earthstrip (E2 5c***), but after my recent E2 attempts, what would happen? Blair wanted to climb the Extreme Rock cover shot Just a Little Tease (E5 6b***), but as his first trad route of the season, how would he fare?

Well, let me put you out of your suspense. Earthstrip succombed to my advances with a touch of heavy breathing on the crux, otherwise it went really well. First E2 in the Glen, and on a cloudless blue sky day, I couldn't have asked for more. Blair employed proper trad tactics for Just a Little Tease, climbing up to place good gear, down climbing, resting, going up and placing a bit more, coming down, resting and then 'avin it. He took a couple of falls on the peculiar crux sideways dyno/fall so lowered off and then climbed the route 'ground up' (ie. he lowered off after a fall, then climbed it cleanly from the bottom on the next go). I've never seen anyone climb an E5, and was very impressed by Blair hanging on in there on the steep upper cracks to place gear. I know that I would have been off a long time before then! To save a complete faff I decided not to second it (obviously, not wanting to blow my flash). Blair cleaned the gear on abseil and in doing so noticed a bat slumbering away in the upper crack, just next to a cam! Good job he hadn't squished it or dislodged it on the lead, or he might have had a fright!

Me nearing the end of Earthstrip

Blair above the crux of Just a Little Tease, Ben Nevis beyond

Friday ended up being an 'admin day' (mountain guide slang for a day off) so I was stoked for some mountain rock on the weekend. I met Steev, Chris, his sister Rachel and her boyfriend Euan at the Clachaig on friday night, had some ales (man, I'm a light-weight these days) and readied ourselves for a day on Garbh Bheinn on Saturday.

After a pretty leisurely start Steev and I were making the long and sweaty stomp up to the South Wall of Great Ridge by about 10.00 and after a semi-epic approach up a wet gully got to the base of the crag by about 12.30. Note: If climbing on the South Wall, don't walk in from Coire an Iubhair, go up the 'short but brutal' Coire a' Chothrum, as you need to get to the bealach at the head of Garbh Coire to access the routes.

The upper tier of Garbh Bheinn's South Wall

Fortunately a steep, dry 100m gneiss wall was more than enough to sooth the aches from the inconvenient approach. The plan was to start on Butterknife (VS***), a three pitch route that takes both tiers of the wall, taking a steep corner system in it's first half. To look at, you wouldn't think that it was a lowly 4b, and I won't pretend that I wasn't a touch intimidated when I started up pitch 2. However, the gear and the jugs just kept coming and it was a real pleasure to climb. Being fairly steep, this crag gets the air beneath your feet pretty rapidly and with views East up Loch Leven to Glen Coe and West down Loch Lihnne to Lismore and the Atlantic beyond it felt like we were on top of the world. A very aesthetically pleasing aspect of the routes here is that they top-out on the summit of Garbh Bheinn. As we sorted the ropes and drank in the view, the hills of Moidart, Morar and Knoydart poked through a cloud inversion, adding to the high mountain feeling.

We had hoped to do Excalibur (HVS 5a,4c***) next, but time was pressing on so we decided that an easier route would be quicker. Rachel and Euan had to get back to Edinburgh that night so we didn't want to leave them waiting. We plumped for Sgian Dubh (Severe**) on the upper tier and weren't disappointed. Again, the steep, juggy rock and good gear provides thrilling situations for the grade, and as the afternoon gave way to early evening the clouds began to clear and the sun beat down on our exposed skin. Bloody marvellous.

Steev enjoying pitch 2 of Sgian Dubh

Meanwhile, Chris was leading Rachel and Euan up Great Ridge (Diff*), and reported an awesome day out, so I'll have to get back with Jones. After the leisurely start, long approach, long route and regular three-person faffage they were quite late off the hill and we missed the last Corran Ferry - a long drive back to the Fort for us! Could have done Excalibur after all!

Sunday's forecast wasn't so promising so we decided that valley cragging would provide more flexibility than mountain routes and after brunch (ooh er, missus) drove down the Glen. Chris got straight on Maisie Gunn... on the Heather Hat and got it with minimal fuss, his first V4 boulder problem and a fitting birthday present. Things didn't remain so positive for the lad though. We got on Storm (HVS ****), Steev on pitch 1, Chris on pitch 2, me on pitch 3. However, half-way up the beautiful crack of pitch 2 Chris decided that this trad-climbing malarkey wasn't for him, so he came back to the belay. After pulling the ropes and lowering him off it started to rain, so I tied in to retrieve the gear, but it soon dried up and I continued up to the belay, an amazing hanging stance from a huge Scots Pine. Only after bringing Steev up, swapping the ropes and getting into the groove of pitch 3 did I notice that it was wet. Bummer. Not really wanting to commit to the wet crux we ended up backing off from the tree. Arse.

The view down pitch 2 of Storm

Back on terra firma Chris expressed a wish to do Kraut, an E1 5b on After Crag that bears an uncanny resemblance to the pitch he had just backed off, only, it's harder. Hmmm. Odd choice. Oh well. We packed up and headed to the route, but low and behold, he didn't fancy it! (Sorry Chris, but maybe getting lots of mileage leading easier routes is required before jumping straight in at the deep end! As Steev said, you're a bold man on the ground.) It's a line I had fancied, so I got busy in his stead. The guidebook description is bang on, strenuous, well protected and on good holds - the kind of climbing I'm not very good at! Shaking away placing a cam near the top, I remembered Blair's down-climbing and slithered into a rest position in a lower niche. After a good shake out and a spot of relaxation I was good to go and hauled my way to the top. Not the finest style, but a clean onsight none the less, and that's what I'm after. As the other two seconded the pitch the rain began again, and we all dicided it was time to call it a day.

The two E1s on After Crag illustrate two things very well. Firstly, the characteristic Polldubh slabby front face and steep left wall provide very different climbing styles. The former is much safer but more pumpy, the latter being more technical and insecure and generally bolder. For me, thin, technical slabs are much easier than steep, juggy walls. Rubberface (E1 5b**) goes up the front slab of After Crag and I waltzed up it a few months back, Kraut (E1 5b**) goes up the steep left wall and I found it pretty tough. It's all a matter of style, baby. Maybe I should spend more time on indoor walls.

So, with the good weather set to remain for a few more days, let's make sure this relentless climbing continues.

Full Immersion

The leaves are coming back, greening the hillsides and clothing the Polldubh crags in their shady blanket. The bracken is starting to stretch and unfurl, flooding the slopes. What's more, swifts, cuckoos and swallows are flitting and singing their way around the glens, the coo of pigeons floats on the air.

It's back. A new Lochaber season, and with it the new buzz of excitement and activity. Back in November and December there was an air of expectation about the oncoming winter season, the routes to climb and the new crags to explore. Now, spring is giving way to summer and the psyche is back among the Fort William flock.

Rob Jarvis, Blair Fyffe and myself took another wonder up to Tunnel Wall on Friday afternoon, Blair on Axiom (F8a), Rob and I on Uncertain Emotions (F7b). Rob was feeling inspired, so instead of working the route on top-rope he tied in and got on the lead, initially bolt-to-bolt (resting on the rope at each bolt), but linking progressively longer sections on the next go. He claimed he wasn't ready for the redpoint attempt, but decided that on his third and final attempt he would simply tie in and climb as far as he could before taking the lob (basically a redpoint attempt). He flowed up the initial groove, and despite a small error on the first crux, got up to the second crux just below the 'almost, if you're brave, hands-off-ish, rest' before succumbing to the relentless pump and took the lob. With nothing to lose he pressed on to the top, only for the pump to catch up with him again on the final moves. He was about to back off and rest on the bolt but yells of encouragement from below spurred him on and after a desperate throw and a blood-curdling yell he took the pisser. Good effort.

Rob Redpointing

Meanwhile, the Fyffe machine was bearing down with a combination of small holds and fancy footwork. He almost got Axiom in a one-er on toprope, boding very well for the inevitable redpoint attempts. I remained on a toprope on Uncertain..., but am definetely getting to grips with the final crux, and made my biggest link-up to date. As we strolled back to the car, feeling inspired and happy, the timeless view of the Buachaille soaked in evening sunshine reminded us of what a great place we're living in.

Me Toproping

Jones made her way to the Crucible on friday evening, and with a dry forecast for the weekend we went for a wee foray into the Glen on Saturday morning. We had planned to do the long mild VS called Autobahnausfart on High Crag, but Jones struggled with the damp first pitch so we headed over to Styx Buttress and she kindly belayed me on the classic Damnation (VS 4c***). As the guidebook says, it looks improbable for the grade, but it's all there with great gear, so get on it!

That night we decided to go for a spot of bothying, so armed with sleeping gear, instant noodles and wine, we made the short walk in to Glen Pean bothy. Despite being only a few miles from the road-head at Loch Arkaig this area feels pretty remote. Cooking up Morrisons Chow Mein instant noodles as the sun set was a real treat, eating them was less so, and the less said about the £4.99 Chardonnay-Viognier the better.

Glen Pean Bothy (Photo: Sarah Jones)

Bank-holiday monday provided Jones with another day in the Fort, and we headed down the Glen again, under hot blue skies. Blair and his lass Jenny Munro were getting involved with Pinnacle Ridge (Severe) while we headed up to Pandora's Buttress and climbed Flying Dutchman (Severe) with the excellent, if a tad short, VS 4c finish. Despite her grumblings about the vegetated and damp first pitch, Jones made light work of the exposed and unprotected traverse on pitch two and the tricky 4c finishing pitch. Proof that it's all in the head....mostly.

After a period of paddling and sunbathing on the banks of Nevis, Jones offered her belaying duties once more and I climbed Tip Toe Direct (E1 5b*) on the foot of Pinnacle Ridge. Although the E1 bit is only the top 7 or so metres, this was a fun route, combining a heady gearless slab (only Hard Severe? Blimey!) with some bomber cams for the crux overlap. It felt pretty easy too. Am I getting better or is it overgraded?

Me on Tip Toe Direct
(Photo: Sarah Jones)

So, after a 3.30am start to look for grouse this morning I teamed up with Blair at mid-day. The plan was for him to have a rest day while I climbed Plague of Blazes (E2 5b***) on Gorge Crag, but the top wall was wet so we headed for Travellin' Man (E2 5b, 5c***) instead. Gulp. Blair lead the short introductory pitch (no push-over itself) and I got ready for the crux pitch. It takes a slabby groove system on the arete of the crag, with spaced but good gear, as I soon discovered. With the sun beating down and the sweat beginning to drip, I gingerly started the crux section about 8 or 9 metres up, stepping left, transferring from one groove to another. As I smeared with my left foot and tried so hard to bring my weight over it, stabbing with my right, I was well aware that my last runner was a good few metres below, and that my fingers were greasing from the rock, unable to chalk up. "Fuck" I thought, "This isn't going to be pretty". Trying to breathe, my full body shaking as adrenaline surged, minutes, hours, days passed. "FUCK, I'M OFF" I yelled, as a let go. Darkness and blurred motion flashed and I found myself hanging upside-down, a few feet below and right of Blair on the belay, one rockshoe on, one off. Somehow unscathed, and laughing. My first ever trad fall, and a 25 footer too.

Blair on the belay of Travellin' ManMe on pitch 2. I fell from above where the crack containing the runners ends
Me off pitch 2, note the missing shoe!

Despite being annoyed with myself for falling off, I'm pretty chuffed to have finally taken the lob that has been inevitable for a while now. I think it's a natural part of becoming a better climber, so I refuse to feel negative about it.

After lowering-off and abbing to clean the gear, we decided to do something less serious, so made a bee-line for the Lower Falls to make 'the jump'. From the ledges upstream of the road bridge it's a 20-25ft jump into the pool. I had never done any river jumps like this, and despite trying to be the big man and trying to slay some demons from Travellin' Man I bottled the jump twice, before Blair showed the way and I rapidly followed suit, three times. We attracted a bit of an audience on the bridge, but it was great to hear the tourists enthusing about the natural beauty of the area and we were only too happy to extoll the virtues of living round here. Mind you on a day like today, just take a stroll down the Glen, look up towards Ben Nevis or across to Sgurr Mhaim, to Steall Falls or Polldubh crags, and that's all the extolling you could ever need.

Here is a rather rough video study on the effect of gravity on the body:

Blair's Admission

I guess it couldn’t last. The new week began and in came the grey, pushing the blue climbing days away. A few spots of drizzle put paid to bouldering down the Glen. Instead, this week I’ve been getting a serious serving of inspiration.

Tuesday afternoon proved dry enough for Blair and I to head up to Tunnel Wall. He was champing at the bit to get back on Admission (F7c+). Between goes familiarizing himself with this 30 metre uber-stamina crimp fest, I put in a few more shifts on Uncertain Emotions. For the first time I clipped the rope all the way to the top (there’s a lower off two thirds of the way up that we’ve always used in the past). Seeing quite how much more of this route I had to learn was humbling.

Meanwhile, the Fyffe was ready and willing for the redpoint, so I pulled the rope as he chilled out. What followed was another display of Blair’s incredible stamina, eeking out semi-rests on tiny edges, smooth and inventive footwork. Naturally, the ascent went smoothly, with only very minor use of the ‘Strathspey War Cry’ as he dropped into an undercut. I was filming him as he reached the top, and I called up for him to say something profound to the camera, all I got back was “I’m pumped”. You wouldn’t have known if you watched him. What amazed me further was what followed; having clipped the lower-off of Admission, he shouted down that he was immediately going to shift the rope across onto his next project: Axiom (F8a). You can’t keep him on the ground.

Blair leading Admission

As the week progressed, the amount of precipitation increased and we were forced under cover. Having heard about Alan Kimber’s new bouldering wall at his place (about 5 minutes walk from the Crucible) we headed down for a look. With the walls constructed by Scott Muir and the problems and circuits set by Dave Macleod, you couldn’t ask for a better set-up. Within a conventional garage space they’ve packed in a vertical wall, a slab, a hanging slab, a 60 degree overhang, a mezzanine area dedicated to stamina circuits, a finger board and two campus boards, plus the piece de resistance, a stereo that you can plug your ipod straight into. Psyche. It’s exactly what Fort William has been in need of for ages, and me too. I went down there for three sessions this week; the weather wasn’t being any fun at all.

As Saturday passed it turned into a beautiful afternoon, so Rob and I planned on another Uncertain Emotions session for Sunday. We reached the crag just as the afternoon sun was hitting it, warming the rock and warming our muscles. I was really inspired by the difference that having warm fingers made, and by comparing notes with Rob and altering a few of my sequences I started to feel like I was making progress on this beast. Familiarity brings efficiency, and efficiency means that I might make it as far as the fourth bolt (out of nine!) before I take a whipper. Seriously though, it’s funny how just a week ago I felt like it was going to be a seriously long-term project, now I’m not so sure. I’m not saying that it’ll go anytime soon, but I’ve got the slightest twinkle of hope that it will go one day. The moves are all there, I just need the endurance.

Looking down Uncertain Emotions

Seems like those stamina circuits at Alan’s wall are going to get some serious action.

Music

It seems that I've recently been possessed by trendy clubbers as I've become enraptured with the work of Kissy Sell Out, a DJ who seems to be at the more dirty end of dance music. I'm not really sure which ever-evolving genre his music/remixes/mixes fall into but all I know is I'm loving them. Maybe its grime, maybe it's krunk, maybe its electro nu-rave post-punk baroque. I particularly like the 'Garden Friends' tune on his myspace page. It reminds me of the Skins theme. Man, I'm so down with the kids.

Fine February Fun

Surely even the cynics must be wondering about what we are doing to our planet. Winter has been far, far away and for nine days in a row it didn't rain in Lochaber. Nine days, in February! In fact, the sun shone, the birds sang and the rock dried. It couldn't last though, and it's looking like today will be the last in this spell of settled weather.

Since returning from Orkney I've been out every day one way or another. On Friday I met Blair for a boulder at the Heather Hat and I've found myself a new project - Killer Instinct. It's shorter than Midnight... so in theory shouldn't take too long to see off. All the moves are down, so I just need to link them.

On Saturday Jones had her first outing on the Ben. We joined the hordes in the Cascade area and climbed a version of Raeburn's Easy Route, with a slightly harder start and finish. It was great to see Jones keen to get on the lead and she made light work of the last pitch. For the most part it was a nice day - blue skies and scudding clouds, just a shame about the three hundred thousand other people we had to share it with.

Jones preparing to bust through the cornice on her first winter lead

Sunday saw Jones and I keen for some cragging action so we headed down the Glen and climbed a great route on Pandora's Buttress. Phantom Slab (VS 4c***) climbs the first two pitches of Pandora (Severe) before an exposed traverse leads across to the base of a beautiful rippled hanging slab. As the guidebook says, it's well worth seeking out.

Jones on the exposed traverse to the belay on Phantom Slab

And so here I am on tuesday night, feeling bruised, broken and sore. The last two days up at Tunnel Wall with Blair have taken their toll. Blair has been trying Admission (F7C+), the last of the set at that grade left for him, while I've been dangling on Uncertain Emotions (F7b) again. Damn, it's still a total beast. We had two days of great weather, and although it was pretty chilly we were able to get enough done to feel totally boxed. Blair's pretty close to the redpoint. I most certainly am not, but I'm sure that trying it is doing wonders to my strength and stamina, and anyway, it's February, anything is a bonus.

Tunnel Wall is deceptively steep: that rope is vertical.

It's also quite big: The sport routes are on the pinkish rock, but Blair looks very small.

Contrasts

You could never say that the weather up here isn't varied.

As promised I took myself out and ran the Ring of Steall on saturday and couldn't see a thing. It was cold, wet, windy and the cloud was down to about 600m. Oddly, no photos were taken. I felt pretty good though, doing the round from the car and back in about 4 hours, and much of the ground isn't good for running. The compass came out a few times to make sure I didn't do anything daft and all in all it went smoothly. The initial ascent up An Gearanach felt good, despite going on a bit.

I'd been meaning to do the Ring of Steall since moving up here (it is pretty much on my door step) so it was cool to see it off. Mind you, it was fairly dissapointing since it's well known for its exposed ridges and good views and I could see dick all, and its not actually that far so I didn't get much of a working. I'll just have to go back on a good day and do it twice.

Getting an early start meant getting back to Banff Crescent in time to see England beat the Aussies in the Rugby World Cup quarter finals. A turn up for the books for sure. Come on my son and all that. Jones was up for the weekend and had been for a descent sized run too and was looking snug and smug when I arrived as the whistle blew for kick off.

In stark contrast, Sunday was a truly georgeous day. The early(ish) morning mist was just hanging in the glen above Loch Linnhe and from our eyrie in Banff Crescent we looked down on it as it swirled and spiralled out towards the sea. After a very leaisurely start Blair picked Jones and I up and we headed to Tunnel Wall on the Buachaille. He had been working on Fated Path, a classic, long F7c+, earlier in the week and was stoked for another go. I was just along for the ride as belayer as I was fairly certain that with the easiest route being F7b there was nothing for me. However, the Fyffester put a rope up most of Uncertain Emotions (F7b) and I got involved. There is a lower-off about three quarters of the way up the route so he clipped in there, telling me that if I was getting there with ease I shouldn't worry too much about the top section. Hmm.

Looking West from Tunnel Wall, Buachaille Etive Beag and the Aenoch Eagach

The outlook from Tunnel Wall is absolutely spectacular, looking down into the mouth of Glencoe to one side and across to the back of Rannoch Moor to the other, and Sunday was one of those amazingly clear days that you only seem to get when its cold and fresh. And did I mention the rock? Shit. It's not actually as steep as I had expected, being either dead vertical or just over, with bulges, small roofs and thin grooves. Eveything about it is subtle. There are no wild overhangs, no big corners, no ledges, no big cracks. Its just a big expanse of rock covered with lots of little edges. From my one afternoon of experience, the climbing is subtle too. Its about precision and technique, not about burling your way from jug to jug.

Looking along Tunnel Wall

These routes are BIG: Blair on the lead

Blair put a rope up Fated Path, top-roped it once and played on the moves a few times, ensuring they were all there, then was ready for the lead, or as he put it "I guess at some point I'll have to tie in to the wrong end".

I'd never belayed someone on a hard route before and was a little nervous of getting in the way or not giving enough slack or too much, but it went without a hitch. He made it look like a breeze. F7c+. Nice one Mr Blair. There was one moment when he gave a power grunt, but he never looked like coming off. Respec.

Success

Between Blair's goes on his route I had a couple of goes on Uncertain Emotions (with a tight top-rope of course). I surprised myself by being able to do all the moves. Linking them all was a different story though. However on the second go I was linking bigger sections. Maybe all this bouldering down the Glen is getting me stronger. Or maybe I've just never really pushed myself to try harder routes so don't know what I can do. Probably a bit of both. Its gonna be a long time until I'll be able to lead the route, but it felt good to know that one day it could be possible.

The only other sport route that I've seriously thought about red-pointing is Fogtown, a F7a at North Berwick. Over the summer I'd top-roped it with just one rest and felt that if I'd carried on I'd get it done one day. Uncertain Emotions felt about the same difficulty as Fogtown did then, though Uncertain Emotions is supposed to be no gift at 7b. Can't help but think that I should get down and get dirty on Fogtown. The only problem is that North Berwick Law is a bit of a shit hole and Tunnel Wall is about as georgeous as crags get. Oh well, nothing like a spanking for ones ego, as it were.

At the 3/4-way lower off after a fight

Midnight update: I'm still falling off the end of Midnight In a Perfect World but have got two (count them) two foot moves further. Wahoo!